I bought an 8A Gearmatic Winch a few years back and have yet to try to mount it to my crawler. I have a ’59 JD crawler. Looks like it should. I Have a gearmatic 8A and the parts book and operating manual. The manual also covers the 8G. I have been able to get parts from a local JD. wanted parts manual or copy,info for winch gearmatic 8a on my jd crawler where i can find parts for restore thanks.

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No registered users and 4 guests. It has an adhesive back and comes in a rectangular shape. Thickness seemed to be perfect, with right amount of contact on the shaft, but not too tight.

If I do damage this seal, what is its replacement number? Once you get these parts loosened or apart, the gwarmatic band should move more freely around the drum. Leaking brake fluid contaminates the clutch and brake banding, and finds its way into bearings dissolving the grease which then leaches into places it shouldn’t be.

Brett, if you wanted to pay them for it, they do sometimes make patterns for outside jobs. I’ll probably take the cover off one last time and decrease the clutch gap a bit so that there is a bit more winch-in pull.

I plan on using locktite thread sealant which is designed for brake fittings, ac fittings, and other hydraulic fittings. All the steel work i know of is out of china. Hope the info is helpful to someone in the future. Unless it is free, or you can get it for scrap value, walk away if you can not get the cover off. Who is gearatic Users browsing this forum: From what I’ve read and from various comments, I need to remove the drum which can be a challenge.

I’ll do some homework.

Remove the three brake band retainers Round plates with two screws each looks like this may be a challenge – on mine I had to grind one broken screw off and drill and re-tap; not much meat to work with. The winch clutch now has sufficient gap to free-wheel, and yet is close enough to have considerable “winch in” pull.


Anybody hear of this Gibbs penatrating oil gfarmatic When I broke down my drum, it appears that I need a lock ring on the outboard bearing, and don’t on the inboard bearing. Who is online Users browsing this forum: Good luck getting things cleaned up gearmwtic free.

Convinced the guy to sell me one. I wound up using various feeler gauges to get a go-no-go fit that allowed the clutch to “free-wheel” until engaged, but still has a close enough gap to engage and winch in as it should. Use broken hacksaw blades to center the clutch bands in the drum, then tighten the adjustment bolts on the clutch spider.

Once the cable was off the drum, I started tapping on the drum with a ballpeen hammer to loosen things up, and the next thing I know, the drum was sliding off the inner bearing and off the main shaft.


Gearmatic 8a Winch/Controller Rebuild – JDcrawlers Messageboard

Paul, unfortunately 60 years of knowledge on these winches is slowly being lost, like a lot of similar older equipment. It is possible to bend one of the legs which will make adjustment of the clutch bands at reassembly difficult. I still have to take the cable off the drum and then get started. Spooky, way too easy – hope this isn’t jinxing the project.

Them brake retainer discs are another story. The brake adjustment screw is typically a bad place for corrosion. You can find it at hardware stores. Try to find an iron foundry around you that still hand molds parts, if you have the part that they can use as a loose pattern it is gearmatif much work to reproduce it. The brake cylinder will run fluid down the push rod if vearmatic is leaking. Next gearmaticc while reassembling is to get the internal fluid lines updated and sealed properly.


Good luck and keep us posted. These winches are very susceptible to moisture, that combined with years of leaking brake fluid can result in a rusted corroded mess.

I don’t want to have any more brake fluid weaps. It looks like you’re making progress. Will the drum slide off the crown gear side bearing, or will the 8aa and bearing usually move as a unit?

Notmeu sent me a sample of what he used when he did his winch – thanks Tom. Andrew, I like the coffee pot heater idea; I’ve used other ways to preheat bearings, but this one is easy and doesn’t require a lot of energy, and doesn’t over heat the bearing. It would pull the Queen Mary around if you could hold the down.

Parts ready for cleaning and re-assembly I’ll be using some epoxy on the spider’s splines when I re-assemble to take up some slop. I’m going to try and restore the winch on the crawler i got last month. The bottom part goes up inside of it. IM beond the time in my life to learn this new stuff.

Easy on the flame wrench. The old plunger for the brake has a hole in it that allows fluid to pass through. I have two new sealed rsnp bearings 30 on the schematic on the way as well as the clutch cover bearing 2rs.

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All of them would not budge. If someone were local to me and had an original part no pattern work involvedI could reproduce it. Put the cover back on and pull on the controller lever in one direction and hold it to keep pressure on the system for a few minutes. Take the cover off, and with a bright light you should see any leaks on the circuit brake or clutch that was under pressure.